The trend of shaping bonsai trees has remained popular for many years. Even some stores offer small trees in flat pots. But is it really worth it? Are these trees truly bonsai? Read our guide to find out how and from what to create bonsai trees.
Beginner's Bonsai Guide
At the outset of this article, we would like to temper the expectations of those who believe that bonsai shaping can be learned in just a few weeks. Unfortunately, good intentions alone and even multiple readings of this guide are not enough! Bonsai is an art combined with mastering a complex technique and understanding the complexities of the natural world. It is knowledge acquired over years. This guide is merely an introduction to a fascinating, long-term adventure.
Bonsai – a technique for creating dwarf plants using a series of special procedures – including pruning of shoots and roots, wiring to shape them, and planting in special flat containers.
Choosing a Tree: Where to Start with Bonsai?
A bonsai tree can be created from practically any plant, but most commonly used species are those with relatively small leaves, flexible shoots that are easy to shape, a distinct trunk (or several), and a shape resembling a "tree."
These can include popular garden plants:
- Trees: maple (mainly Japanese maple), oak, beech, white spruce (usually 'Conica' variety), birch, hawthorn, ginkgo, larch, pine (usually dwarf), creeping juniper, cypress, plum, cherry (usually serrated), elm;
- Shrubs: cotoneaster, pine, witch hazel, firethorn, quince, rhododendron, azalea;
- And many indoor potted plants: ficuses (e.g., rubber or Benjamin), Carmona, myrtle, jade plants, olive, citrus, camellia, hibiscus, pomegranate, Sageretia, fuchsia, gardenia, adenium, Schefflera, and many more.
Buying Bonsai
Beginners often choose "ready-made" bonsai from stores, but this often means buying a "pig in a poke." Rarely are the plants labeled with species names (they are marked with meaningless names like "bonsai mix"), and once brought home, it is unclear where to find information about their requirements and care.
Such "pseudo-bonsai" are often mass-produced in Asian countries. They have severely trimmed shoots and roots to give them the desired shape. The trees are often in very poor condition and quickly perish after being brought home. They can be bought and attempted to be shaped further, but there is always a significant risk. Sometimes, discounted plants are worth buying just for their pots...
It is much better to buy an unshaped plant from a store or dig up a seedling from the garden and start creating "bonsai from scratch" – this unfortunately takes much longer, as initial results will take at least 2-3 seasons.
It is worth buying a small plant "shaped like a little tree" with a height of 20-40 cm, a trunk thick at the base and tapering towards the top, with evenly arranged side shoots. It is best to choose specimens with unusual shapes – e.g., a fantastically curved trunk or irregular or crooked crown shape (and adapt to nature's plans).
Bonsai Pots
Special pots are essential! There is no debate about this. Even the most beautifully shaped tree in a regular pot will not resemble a bonsai. It must be transplanted into a flat container to give it the right character.
The best bonsai pots are made of clay (glazed or unglazed) or stone trays and shells. Plastic ones can be used during the initial shaping stage, but it is worth transferring them to the final containers as soon as possible, as they look tacky in plastic pots.
Tree in a Pot – the name "bonsai" comes from two Japanese words: bon – container, and sai – tree.
The pot is half of a bonsai's beauty! The tree must be well matched to the container, harmonizing with it in terms of color, texture, size, and shape.
For tall plants, choose flat pots with a depth equal to the trunk's diameter; those with drooping branches look best in narrow and tall containers. Trees with a straight trunk should be planted in square or rectangular pots. Plants with irregular crowns are better planted in round and oval pots.
Shaping Bonsai: Giving Shape to Trees
The best inspiration for shaping bonsai trees is nature – it creates the most beautiful shapes. A walk in the park or forest will reveal extraordinary, fanciful forms we call "natural." It is commonly accepted that old, centuries-old specimens "worn by time" look the most beautiful. These were the inspiration for Japanese masters who created several bonsai shaping styles. The most popular are:
- Chokkan – upright regular style, trunk and branches shaped like a pyramid growing in all directions, including backward.
- Moyogi – upright irregular style, similar to the previous one, but with a trunk that is not perfectly straight.
- Shakan – slanted style, a tree with a straight trunk tilted to the left or right.
- Yose-uye – a small grove or several trees, preferably more than 3, planted in a flat container, sometimes on a flat rock slab.
- Kengai – cascading style, with a twisted trunk flowing like a waterfall from top to bottom. The tree's apex should be below the bottom of the container.
You can also let your imagination run wild and create a tree with your own invented shape, but to maintain dwarf growth and shape, regular wiring and pruning of shoots (and sometimes roots) will be necessary.
However, it is important to remember that not all plants will accept any shape we invent! Bonsai is a beautiful art but limited by the laws of nature. We can create almost any shape, but we are constrained by fragile shoots, too large leaves, flowers, or fruits.
Shaping Bonsai: Step by Step
Bonsai should resemble an old, miniature tree. To achieve this, appropriate proportions must be maintained. Branches in the lower part of the crown should be the thickest and grow horizontally from the trunk, and the higher the branches, the thinner they should be.
Pruning
In the first years, we shape the trees to maintain their form in the following years. This depends on the style we choose, so it is difficult to describe general pruning rules. The most important thing is to expose the trunk and thick branches and then trim (or remove) smaller shoots to create horizontal, green patches on the main shoots.
It is worth remembering that when pruning the above-ground part, we must also prune the roots! Thick branches and roots are pruned during the dormant period, while smaller shoots and leaves are pruned during the growing season.
Pruning is an essential shaping procedure for most plant species grown as bonsai. It stimulates plants to grow quickly and rebuild pruned shoots, so the procedure must be carried out regularly to maintain the desired shape of the tree.
Wiring
Wiring allows us to delicately bend the trunk and branches of the tree. Most young branches grow at an acute angle to the trunk and straight to the main branches, so if we want them to resemble old branches, we need to bend them horizontally and sideways using wire. It is not difficult, although it may seem so at first. It is important to wire the branches from the thickest to the thinnest part of the shoot and to remove the wire before it begins to embed in the bark.
Exposing Roots
"Adds age to the tree" – it is worth uncovering the substrate and exposing part of the root system to make the plant look older. In forests or parks, old trees often have fantastical, twisted, and exposed roots. It is worth creating such an effect in miniature.
Shaping an (previously unshaped) plant from a store takes many years. Bonsai is an art for the patient! Although initial results can be seen after the first pruning and after transplanting the plant into a flat pot, the final result will take at least a few years. It is worth remembering that shaping never ends because the tree continues to grow, and if we forget about pruning and wiring, the plant will start growing "on its own."
Caring for Bonsai Trees
The care of a plant depends on its individual requirements! It is very difficult to describe general bonsai care rules, as they are highly varied, come from different climate zones, and have completely different growth patterns.
Outdoor Bonsai
Bonsai from outdoor plants must be grown outdoors. It changes with the seasons and has the same requirements as its larger cousins growing in the ground (it must go through a period of dormancy in the cold). They can be kept indoors only for very short periods! They need to spend as much time "under the open sky" as possible.
Indoor Bonsai
Indoor bonsai plants feel best on home window sills. In the season (from mid-May to the end of September), they can be placed on a balcony or terrace, but they must return "under the roof" for winter, as most are sensitive to frost.
Watering Bonsai
Watering should be frequent and regular to ensure that the substrate in the pot does not dry out. The bottom of every professional bonsai container has large holes through which water quickly drains away. The soil can be misted frequently – this encourages the growth of moss, which looks very decorative.
Fertilizing Bonsai
For feeding bonsai trees, it is best to use natural fertilizers. You can try Cute Farms Bonsai Slow Release Plant Food. This specialized formula provides a steady supply of essential nutrients over time, ensuring consistent growth and vitality. Its slow-release mechanism helps prevent over-fertilization, making it easier to maintain the perfect balance for your bonsai’s health.